Sbasciata is an italian slang term referring to that burst of colour when there is a sunset. Armed only with a beer and a didgerydoo 5 floors up in the Khatmandu we saw the Sbasciata.
Monday, October 25, 2010
Orphanage - Volunteering
"Don't Ask Questions - Just Smile"These were some of the first words said to us by the organiser of the orphanage in Khatmandu.
I may be cold-hearted though I don't feel the need to run to the toilet, bolt the door and weep at the sight of babies under a year playing in dirty clothes, 1 year olds playing in a tiny 3x4m room amongst bugs and flies, 5 year olds with mucky faces but huge smiles and hearing the stories from these children. NO!!!! I don't feel the need to cry as this man told me. I am more inclined to get down and play with these children, clean their noses, listen to their stories, go to the library and read with the children with Cerebral Palsy and go crazy spinning, chanting, singing and laughing with these children with the constant chant of "Let's go! Let's go!" in the library.
Some half-hearted research into the orphange I was helping in revealed some hard-hitting facts. A google search and speaking with some locals brought up many allegations of children being taken from rural villages with promises of great education, when really these illiterate parents are signing their much-loved children away for international adoption.
Nepal, with scenery that I have only seen previously in Disney films, is a land of corruption, everyone wants money, it's all about the money, even when it comes to a human life. As this little man told us "You Can't Change Anything!!!" So, bearing this in mind I decided to walk away from this orphanage.
The real people who help these children are the Didis who live there every day and night tirelessly working for these children who refer to them as "mum". Thanks to these ladies the children are always smiling and the orphanage is a happy home for these young individuals.
Volunteering in an orphanage sounds like a nice idea, though realistically, with noexpertise you are not changing anything. In hindsight, it would have made more sense to work with an NGO that provides water pumps with clean water in rural villages then hundreds of children can drink cleanwater in Nepal, were the water runs brown and many babies die before reaching the age of 1 because of the condition of the water.
If anyone is considering volunteering in Nepal I would advise to arrive in Nepal and do some basic research before any money exchanges hands. If you find an NGO or organisation that suits your requirements and perhaps expertise volunteering could be a very rewarding and pleasant experience.
Saturday, October 23, 2010
Thamel Guesthouse
Tucked away in the back-streets of Thamel after wandering around following Nepali directions, much the same as Indian directions, ie. USELESS. "Little bit forward, little bit left, then left, then arc, then right" - all with hand gestures I found Thamel Guesthouse.
With voyeuristic peep-holes in every door looking straight to the bed, a wonderful Didi with an infectious cackle and a rooftop with a view of Khatmandu this would be my home for the next month.
Located above Cookie Wallah restaurant. I never did try the cookies. Apparently there was not enough white people in Thamel yet. "Do black people not like the cookies? Oh no, they do. It's just brown people. Brown people don't buy my cookies" Oh right!!
With voyeuristic peep-holes in every door looking straight to the bed, a wonderful Didi with an infectious cackle and a rooftop with a view of Khatmandu this would be my home for the next month.
Located above Cookie Wallah restaurant. I never did try the cookies. Apparently there was not enough white people in Thamel yet. "Do black people not like the cookies? Oh no, they do. It's just brown people. Brown people don't buy my cookies" Oh right!!
Khatmandu
An ear operation without anaesthetic, some veg MOMOs, a hectic tuc-tuc journey with 4 chickens in the seat beside me and I arrive in Thamel, Khatmandu.
A funny place - full of two type of people: volunteers who think they're a reincarnation of Mother Theresa (saving the world through their NGO) and trekkers with polo-shirts, khaki shorts and over-sized bumbags who have that adventure streak in them.
In the narrow streets of Thamel you will nearly be knocked down every 10 minutes by taxi drivers who feel it is appropriate to drive right into you to check if you need a taxi "taxi?? taxi??"
Little old men with Nepali pastel-coloured fabric hats jumping from crevasses in the wall to sell you TIGER BALM for only 100rs which is claimed to treat any ailment.
And everywhere you walk the sing-song "NA-MA-STAE" being chirped at you from shop-doors.
At night covers of rock songs can be heard from the rooftops. It often sounds like Bob Dylan or some rock-star is playing, though under investigation it's a band of little Nepali teenagers barely touching 5-foot dressed head-to-toe in leather rocking out to "Play That Funky Music White Boy", "Wild World" and other classics.
Thamel is a funny place!!!
A funny place - full of two type of people: volunteers who think they're a reincarnation of Mother Theresa (saving the world through their NGO) and trekkers with polo-shirts, khaki shorts and over-sized bumbags who have that adventure streak in them.
In the narrow streets of Thamel you will nearly be knocked down every 10 minutes by taxi drivers who feel it is appropriate to drive right into you to check if you need a taxi "taxi?? taxi??"
Little old men with Nepali pastel-coloured fabric hats jumping from crevasses in the wall to sell you TIGER BALM for only 100rs which is claimed to treat any ailment.
And everywhere you walk the sing-song "NA-MA-STAE" being chirped at you from shop-doors.
At night covers of rock songs can be heard from the rooftops. It often sounds like Bob Dylan or some rock-star is playing, though under investigation it's a band of little Nepali teenagers barely touching 5-foot dressed head-to-toe in leather rocking out to "Play That Funky Music White Boy", "Wild World" and other classics.
Thamel is a funny place!!!
Crossing The Border
After much confusion over buses and taxis I finally made it to the area were I would be crossing the border from Siliguri, India to Kakarbhitta, Nepal. On the train my ear had started to feel sore and now it was intensely sore and I was completely deaf in my left ear.
On the local bus a Nepali dwarf had made it his mission to help me cross the border, much to the annoyance of his wife. After stepping down from the bus he got us a cycle-rickshaw and got my passport stamped by the Indian Visa Office.
Riding across the bridge over the border with the Nepali dwarf sitting to my left-hand side cursing his wife in Nepalese into my deaf ear I was taken aback by how beautiful the scenery was. A wide slow-flowing stream with crystal clear water hitting gently against large grey rocks as people washed clothes and fished in the tranquility as the sun gently beat down.
Already I was beginning to like Nepal!!!!
On the local bus a Nepali dwarf had made it his mission to help me cross the border, much to the annoyance of his wife. After stepping down from the bus he got us a cycle-rickshaw and got my passport stamped by the Indian Visa Office.
Riding across the bridge over the border with the Nepali dwarf sitting to my left-hand side cursing his wife in Nepalese into my deaf ear I was taken aback by how beautiful the scenery was. A wide slow-flowing stream with crystal clear water hitting gently against large grey rocks as people washed clothes and fished in the tranquility as the sun gently beat down.
Already I was beginning to like Nepal!!!!
Sunday, October 10, 2010
Rush, Rush, Rush To Make That Train
With my visa for India expiring on the 17/9/10 I decided to spend a few months in Nepal. Having successfully circumnavigated India for 6 months without getting a plane, I prefer to see were I'm going from a train or bus window and really feel the journey, I decided I would cross the border by land.
Being over-laidback and perhaps stupid I left this journey very last minute so I would in fact be crossing the border on the 17/9/10.
The trip from Calcutta to the border takes about 16hours on train to Siliguri and then a short bus journey to the border were you can cross on foot. I had a 3-tier AC train ticket booked for 6.30pm on 16/9/10 and this was my only option for getting out of India in time.
After rushing to exchange rupees for dollars to pay my Nepal-visa on arrival in Nepal and quickly packing I left Abhijay's house in Jodhpur Park at 5.20pm. I had to get to an ATM then haila taxi for the journey to the train station which normally takes about 45mins. Entering the taxi at 5.30pm I had 1 hour to reach the train station. Traffic in Calcutta is terrible, despite the wide roads and as our taxi crawled at a snails-pace down the rainy streets of Calcutta panic set in as I watch the minutes race by. Waiting for red lights to change to green and cursing every other driver on the road and myself as I anxiously tapped on the back of the driver's seat in front of me.
Finally, with 8 minutes till the trainleft we arrived at the train station. Slamming the taxi door shut, both of us running through puddles with the sound of the drummers who had just arrived in Cal for the the Puja celebrations beating their drums as a soundtrack, my heart beating along with them as we ran into the station. Unable to decipher what platform the train was leaving from we stood in the middle of the train-station like goons staring around till we saw the train on a board. Running as ast as I could in flip-flops to platform 8, with 3 minutes to go, my dark blue, rusty train was there.
Dropping my bags on my burke there was enough time for quick goodbyes before the deafening horn summoned me to the train. We Won The Race And I Made My Train!!
Being over-laidback and perhaps stupid I left this journey very last minute so I would in fact be crossing the border on the 17/9/10.
The trip from Calcutta to the border takes about 16hours on train to Siliguri and then a short bus journey to the border were you can cross on foot. I had a 3-tier AC train ticket booked for 6.30pm on 16/9/10 and this was my only option for getting out of India in time.
After rushing to exchange rupees for dollars to pay my Nepal-visa on arrival in Nepal and quickly packing I left Abhijay's house in Jodhpur Park at 5.20pm. I had to get to an ATM then haila taxi for the journey to the train station which normally takes about 45mins. Entering the taxi at 5.30pm I had 1 hour to reach the train station. Traffic in Calcutta is terrible, despite the wide roads and as our taxi crawled at a snails-pace down the rainy streets of Calcutta panic set in as I watch the minutes race by. Waiting for red lights to change to green and cursing every other driver on the road and myself as I anxiously tapped on the back of the driver's seat in front of me.
Finally, with 8 minutes till the trainleft we arrived at the train station. Slamming the taxi door shut, both of us running through puddles with the sound of the drummers who had just arrived in Cal for the the Puja celebrations beating their drums as a soundtrack, my heart beating along with them as we ran into the station. Unable to decipher what platform the train was leaving from we stood in the middle of the train-station like goons staring around till we saw the train on a board. Running as ast as I could in flip-flops to platform 8, with 3 minutes to go, my dark blue, rusty train was there.
Dropping my bags on my burke there was enough time for quick goodbyes before the deafening horn summoned me to the train. We Won The Race And I Made My Train!!
And The Skies Opened And It Poured
With plans to head to North Calcutta Abhijay and I met Opashona for lunch in the afternoon. It was a sunny afternoon and after finishing our thalis when we were just about to leave the skies opened and monsoon rains poured down from the cloud-filled sky. It's rather alarming how quickly monsoon can creep up upon you. Seeking shelter under a large green umbrella the rain did not subside so we made a dash for it and soaked to the skin we hailed a taxi.
In Calcutta I have witnessed the most severe forms of poverty I've encountered in India. Though, along with this these people are some of the friendliest, warmest people I have ever met and they accept things and get on with it with a smile on their face.
When the monsoon rain comes the streets of Calcutta come alive. Children without a stitch of clothing shrieking with delight as they splash each other in mucky, rain water. Families who live under blue tarpaulins which have caved in under the pressure from the volume of rain laughing as they all work together to salvage their rain-soaked belongings and fix the roof above their head. Men peaking out from tiny road-side dhabas sipping chai waiting for the dowpour to cease.
Since coming to India I've come to love the rain as it is a refuge from the intense heat. The wonderful feeling of cold rain falling on your skin when you are so hot you are sweating is something you must experience to appreciate - some people in Bangalore even do a rain dance!!!!
In Calcutta I have witnessed the most severe forms of poverty I've encountered in India. Though, along with this these people are some of the friendliest, warmest people I have ever met and they accept things and get on with it with a smile on their face.
When the monsoon rain comes the streets of Calcutta come alive. Children without a stitch of clothing shrieking with delight as they splash each other in mucky, rain water. Families who live under blue tarpaulins which have caved in under the pressure from the volume of rain laughing as they all work together to salvage their rain-soaked belongings and fix the roof above their head. Men peaking out from tiny road-side dhabas sipping chai waiting for the dowpour to cease.
Since coming to India I've come to love the rain as it is a refuge from the intense heat. The wonderful feeling of cold rain falling on your skin when you are so hot you are sweating is something you must experience to appreciate - some people in Bangalore even do a rain dance!!!!
Celebrating My Birthday In Calcutta
After a relaxed morning/afternoon overdosing on chocolate lava cake and sweet cheese balls I set off to North Calcutta with Abhijay, Opashona, Gorky and Arijit. When we arrived we crossed the train-track and were on the banks of the Ganges, the river my travels had ended up following for the past month.
Downstream, with the large bridge in the background the pleasant water had a few little boats with lanterns inside them that you can take for a few hours.
We decided to take a boat and a man rowed us very, very slowly to the middle of the river. When we got there we released sky lanterns, a gift from Abhijay ordered all the way from Hyderabad. Sky lanterns have some wax inside and when you light this the illuminated material takes off into the sky as you make a wish. When I lit mine it took off very fast and got further and further away until it became a yellow star twinkling in the distance.
When we had all let off our sky lanterns and docked the boat we set off in search of street food and entertainment. The street food in Calcutta is the best I've sampled in the whole of India and I've tried it all.
I had a wonderful birthday and can only hope my next year will be as good as this one.
Downstream, with the large bridge in the background the pleasant water had a few little boats with lanterns inside them that you can take for a few hours.
We decided to take a boat and a man rowed us very, very slowly to the middle of the river. When we got there we released sky lanterns, a gift from Abhijay ordered all the way from Hyderabad. Sky lanterns have some wax inside and when you light this the illuminated material takes off into the sky as you make a wish. When I lit mine it took off very fast and got further and further away until it became a yellow star twinkling in the distance.
When we had all let off our sky lanterns and docked the boat we set off in search of street food and entertainment. The street food in Calcutta is the best I've sampled in the whole of India and I've tried it all.
I had a wonderful birthday and can only hope my next year will be as good as this one.Saturday, October 9, 2010
Come As You Are Not (Magic Wallrush IV)
"We're here to change,
we're here to scream
We're here to tell you what we mean
We're here to sing and grow our hair
So come in colours, we'll see you there!" (Invitation on facebook for Magic Wallrush IV)
On a very sunny afternoon in Calcutta the corner at the Park Street/Free School Street Crossing was converted into an art/photography exhibition space with contemporary photography, graphic t-shirts, illustrated trainers, lamp shades made from saris, illustrations and paintings galore. With a masquerade theme glittery masks were essential and with sparkling hangings and photographs/paintings mounted on the grate railings it was the perfect exhibition area.
The Magic Wallrush group are a group of young individuals from Calcutta who have joined forces to bring art back to the streets of Calcutta through organising events were art is at the fore-front and is accessible to all. My friend Abhijay, who I met in Bangalore, is part of this team. The day started well with Krishna, who sells flutes on the streets every day, joining us and along with a handful of "observers" proceeded to help us with the preparation.
With the sun beating down the day just got better with everyone jamming and a lot of interest in the artwork.
With a few trips to Olypub throughout the day and sneaking to the car park behind to eat freshly prepared home-cooked Chicken biryani the sun slowly set. One of the requirements of the sponsors was that there must be a tarot-card reader/fortune teller. So, under candlelight Sambit nervously stepped up to the mark and half-an-hour later he had a turban wrapped around his head in his element spilling future stories and some tears were even shed.
As these stories unfolded the Bauls arrived. The Bauls are a group of mystic minstrels from Bengal. Dressed in red kurtas, with the oldest of the men taking out and changing into the greatest patch-work kurta I've ever set on eyes on they began to play in the candlelight with the quirky photographic images of India in the background. In the humid air everyone sat in silence cross-legged on the street as the wonderful sounds of the Bauls resonated around the streets of Calcutta. The music produced by these three men was beautiful and everyone observed in awe as the oldest man stood up playing the ektara and danced with bells on his toes jingling in time with the rhythm. These men's musical talent takes you to another place.
A perfect ending to a wonderful day and I think the Magic Wallrush team definitely succeeded in their aim of bringing art and music to the young and old people on the streets of Calcutta.
The Magic Wallrush team have a puja installation coming up in Calcutta on the 13th to the 17th October which people should definitely check out if they're in Calcutta. For more information you can check out their blog: www.thethirdeyeproject.blogspot.com
we're here to scream
We're here to tell you what we mean
We're here to sing and grow our hair
So come in colours, we'll see you there!" (Invitation on facebook for Magic Wallrush IV)
On a very sunny afternoon in Calcutta the corner at the Park Street/Free School Street Crossing was converted into an art/photography exhibition space with contemporary photography, graphic t-shirts, illustrated trainers, lamp shades made from saris, illustrations and paintings galore. With a masquerade theme glittery masks were essential and with sparkling hangings and photographs/paintings mounted on the grate railings it was the perfect exhibition area.
The Magic Wallrush group are a group of young individuals from Calcutta who have joined forces to bring art back to the streets of Calcutta through organising events were art is at the fore-front and is accessible to all. My friend Abhijay, who I met in Bangalore, is part of this team. The day started well with Krishna, who sells flutes on the streets every day, joining us and along with a handful of "observers" proceeded to help us with the preparation.
With the sun beating down the day just got better with everyone jamming and a lot of interest in the artwork.
With a few trips to Olypub throughout the day and sneaking to the car park behind to eat freshly prepared home-cooked Chicken biryani the sun slowly set. One of the requirements of the sponsors was that there must be a tarot-card reader/fortune teller. So, under candlelight Sambit nervously stepped up to the mark and half-an-hour later he had a turban wrapped around his head in his element spilling future stories and some tears were even shed.
As these stories unfolded the Bauls arrived. The Bauls are a group of mystic minstrels from Bengal. Dressed in red kurtas, with the oldest of the men taking out and changing into the greatest patch-work kurta I've ever set on eyes on they began to play in the candlelight with the quirky photographic images of India in the background. In the humid air everyone sat in silence cross-legged on the street as the wonderful sounds of the Bauls resonated around the streets of Calcutta. The music produced by these three men was beautiful and everyone observed in awe as the oldest man stood up playing the ektara and danced with bells on his toes jingling in time with the rhythm. These men's musical talent takes you to another place.
A perfect ending to a wonderful day and I think the Magic Wallrush team definitely succeeded in their aim of bringing art and music to the young and old people on the streets of Calcutta.The Magic Wallrush team have a puja installation coming up in Calcutta on the 13th to the 17th October which people should definitely check out if they're in Calcutta. For more information you can check out their blog: www.thethirdeyeproject.blogspot.com
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