Govindghat -> Rishikesh (Landslide Ordeal)

The Valley of Flowers and Rishikesh are both situated in the state of Uttaranchal (at the foothills of the Himalayas). Govindghat to Rishikesh should normally take about 12 hours, however with landslides it can take longer and I found this out the hard way.

After trekking for 6 hours downhill from Gangria to Govindghat we had a light lunch and piled into a jeep to Joshimath. The jeep could comfortably hold about 8 people and the driver. Obviously, this being India, there were the 7 of us and 4 other local men who spoke neither English or Hindi squeezed in together. The journey took 20 minutes and the local music the driver was playing made it pass even quicker.

Arriving in Joshimath we discovered the buses to Rishikesh all leave early in the morning and as it was now evening we had to stay the night. The roads in Uttaranchal are narrow and unsafe at the best of times so driving at night is strongly discouraged. We managed to find 3 comfortable rooms for only 150rs a night in a guesthouse and each of the rooms had a tv with films in English. Of course, not having watched a tv for about 3 weeks I took full advantage of this. Whilst in Joshimath I came down with fever and the doctor advised I stay there for a further 2 nighhts. After resting, popping all the pills I'd been prescribed and having the doctor confirm I didn't have malaria I was able to leave this tiny city.

I was travelling alone on the bus from Joshimath to Rishikesh. After making the 10 minute walk to the bus station from the guesthouse in the dark at 4.30 in the morning and escaping the wrath of the barking, perhaps blood-thirsty street dogs I paid 350rs and got on the bus. I got a seat right at the front behind the driver as the bus quickly filled up with locals. The bus actually left on time which is very rare in India and a short 30-minute stop for some goats to pass and we were en route to Rishikesh as the sun rose. 3 hours passed and the bus came to a stand-still. Assuming this was a chai or breakfast stop I stood up and exited the bus. Ahead of the bus there was about 20 cars, buses and bikes. In the distance I could see a large landslide and one small JCB-type vehicle repeatedly crashing into the side of the landslide resulting in a few stones crashing down the side of the cliff and into the river below. Obviously, there was also roughly 100 people observing intently, people in India love to watch, observation is the name of the game. After deliberating joining the crowd I decided it would be a long process and sleeping would be a more enjoyable option. Waking up 3 hours later at lunchtime and seeing work had progressed slowly and roughly 3/8ths of the landslide had been cleared. With the crowds of observers still in place, obviously, I asked a lady if there was any food I could eat. Staring blankly into my eyes she turned towards the landslide, pointed at it and just said "WATCH!!!" With nothing else to do I obeyed and sat for 2 hours watching the JCB crashing into the side and rocks falling and crashing into the currents.

It was now about 4 pm and not having eaten in nearly 24hours food was the only thing on my mind and I was craving some home-made food or just anything to eat. There was a family sitting eating rice, dahl and vegetables. I was watching them eating with envy when I noticed lots of people had bananas and apples. After asking directions from about 4 different people I located the man with his rickety-old pedal bike with a big basket of apples and bananas. With a friendly smile he over-charged me blatantly, some definite white tax added on. I didn't mind though and paid it and devoured my apples and bananas.

After sleeping 4 more hours I awoke to the sound of the engine and the landslide had been cleared and we were en route to Rishikesh, AGAIN! At Srinigar, a little town in Uttaranchal, the bus finally stopped for dinner at about 10pm. I rushed to the closest dhaba and ordered a thali with about 4 refills for 40rs. Stumbling back to the bus in the dark the conductor informed me there was a landslide further ahead and we would have to stay here for the night and leave the following morning at 6am. Could things get any worse, OH YES!

Srinigar is a small town with 3 or 4 guesthouses. As noone could get past the landslide and it was already late all of these were fully booked. The only option available to me was a dorm with 20 beds in a small wooden dirty shack with a small toilet outside for 50rs. The room was already full of men , the kind you find on local buses who stare with a look of intrigue at any white person that crosses their path. It was either this or the street, which was already taken by people who reside there every night. So, after using the disgusting toilet I went to my bed and spent the night with one eye open hugging my belongings and getting feasted on by mosquitos.

Suffice to say I didn't get any sleep and was very pleased to hear my alarm at 5.30am the following morning and with the sun rising the bus took off. En route to Rishikesh. Work was still being carried out on clearing the landslide from the day before . Luckily, when we stopped to wait there was a family-run dhaba with outdoor seating and a man selling fruit at the other side of the road. The perfect spot for a landslide stop. After consuming breakfast and lots of fruits and waiting 3 hours the landslide had been cleared. Driving for a further 3 hours on the bumpy, winding, narrow roads I finally reached Rishikesh, my final destination.

Never imagined a 12 hour journey could take 4 days - WHAT AN ORDEAL!!